Sao Lao

Laos is the top destination in Asia for ecotourism. There is plenty to do at the World Heritage Town of Luang Prabang as well as Wat Phu in Champassak province. Check out the two promotional clips from the Lao National Tourism Administration. You just might want to head down to the land of a million elephants.

For the majority of the people in Laos there is no such thing as taking a vacation. Most of my relatives (the poor ones) have never been anywhere beyond their town or province. If they are fortunate enough to have relatives outside of Laos that would often visit them, then they have a chance to go to places they have only heard about or seen on TV.

After Bay’s engagement party, her finance took everyone out on the town. This waterfall in Pakse is one of the spots they went to. The name of this waterfall is Huay Xe (if I read the sign correctly) and one of the places I didn’t get a chance to visit during my stay in Laos last year. This waterfall is simple and many people like to take a shower underneath it. It is not as grand or as spectacular as Khone Phapheng, Lipi, Tad Fane, or Tad Paxuam but it is a place where many locals would go to for a family picnic with green papaya salad, BBQ chicken, and sticky rice. Mo (pictures above) told me that no one should take a shower there and he would never do it again himself. The reason? Well, the water might be clear but near the source on higher ground there are pig farms. Guess where the farmers dump the waste? Down with the water of course.

For my relatives in Vientiane that are well to do they often take vacation outside of Laos. For a quick vacation they would go to Thailand so they can enjoy the sun at the beach or shop until they drop. For a longer vacation they would go to the USA and visit relatives and then go to New York or go to Europe like Paris or London. Just like anywhere in the world, when you are poor, you keep busy trying to find enough food to eat. When you have enough money at a certain level then vacation is a luxury that you can afford.

The storm is coming and you can’t out run it or find a place to hide. You just have to stand up and weather the storm. Who knows there might be a beautiful rainbow at the end of a rain.

After my visit to Champasak Palace Hotel, I went back to Wat Louang for the second time. The first time I was there with my parents was in the late afternoon. We were there for less than 10 minutes since it was busy with other tourists. My parents also were in a hurry to go to the evening market so I didn’t get a chance to take my time and walk around.

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During our stay in Pakse we often went to Ban Thahin Neua for the evening market. It is smaller than the other evening market in town but very closer to my cousin’s house. This town is along the main road to the new morning Pakse market and to get out of Pakse. It is also the only place I have found to have a bung (pond) with phak thob. It reminds me of a town that I used to live in Vientiane as a little kid.

The adventure in Pakse continues. After we finished with grocery shopping and came back to the house it was time to meet with the rest of the family members. I saw my father’s mother for the second time in my life. The first time was when I was a little kid in Vientiane. I tried to take as much pictures as possible of the relatives for my parents. While the rest of the relatives were busy getting to know my mother, I went into the kitchen to give a helping hand. My father told me to do my fair share with the household chores while I am there.

We had a nice lunch with more than 20 people (I stop counting at 20). I didn’t eat much since the dishes were all too hot for my taste. This family puts chili peppers in just about everything. After lunch I did the dishes all by myself. My father’s niece has a teenage daughter but was not much of a help. When she saw me do dishes, she ran away to her grandmother’s house (my father’s older sister) to play. The other children were young boys and therefore cannot help in the kitchen. I didn’t mind doing the dishes, except for the fact that the sink was too low (below my butt’s level). It was difficult to help in the kitchen with washing all the vegetables and fruits and do the dishes.

My father’s niece couldn’t help me do the dishes since he gave her laundry to wash. I started to laugh while watching my father gives the order. Who was the dek-noi (little kid) that will do my laundry like he said back in Vientiane? I also found the interaction of the family to be quite amusing. The fact that his niece and her husband call my parents as mom and dad rather than Na Bao and Na Sao was interesting to me.

After I finished with the dishes (for more than 20 people by hands I must stress), I went back to the living-room and found my parents busy passing out gifts to the old and the young. My cousins wanted to take me to see the sunset at the Mekong River but my father said I was not allowed to go anywhere after dark and not to ride the motorcycle. He said I can only go somewhere with my parents and if not would only be able to go somewhere with Aao Ki in his tuk-tuk. That way I can stay safe.

I asked my parents if I can go visit Aao Ki’s family. I was surprised to find out that he lives in the same village as Grand-mama. What a coincidence? The plot of the story becomes even more intense when I saw his house which is on the main road and only a couple of minutes walk to Grand-mama’s house. While I stood outside Aao Ki’s house and ordering sugarcane drink from his daughter, I gave Bay a call and told her of what is going on. I asked her if this is the same man who took Grand-mama to the doctor a week before. Bay confirmed my suspicion. I was shocked to find out how small of a world we live in. I then asked Bay whether or not Aao Ki recognized me from our last meeting. Bay didn’t think so because I had a different haircut back then and it was a brief meeting. I told her not really since I was sitting outside the doctor’s office with him. I told Bay that I felt as though I am living in a lakorn.

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After we came back from Pakse Market, we finished packing and called for a Tuk Tuk to take us to the bus station. We wanted to get there early so we can choose a suitable bus. Since we were not taking the VIP bus back to Vientiane, we had to pick one that is not yet full of passengers and goods. After some selecting my aunts decided on a bus that was not full of goods on top. Unlike the VIP bus, the economy bus is loaded with sticky rice bags inside the bus and animals and more bags of rice on top.

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When we finished with family photo session we headed out to Pakse Market for breakfast and some shopping. I wanted to show the DVD recording to the family but was not able to do so because there is no DVD player in the house. I decided to buy a DVD player as an investment.

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After Bay and I came back from the temple, we rounded up all the family members for photo time. It was an emotional moment for all of us as we took turn taking pictures. Grand-Mama was the center of the attention. I gave her a Dutch kiss (three kisses on both cheeks) and Grand-Mama was smiling and laughing. She was at her best moment with so much joy on her face.

I told her the adults back in the US won’t like what they are seeing with me treating my Grand-Mama in a non-traditional Lao way. But she didn’t mind at all and likes the fact that I am the only grand-daughter who dare to kiss her all the time. Of course, I still give her the Lao nop with the extra loving touch at the end (a Dutch kiss).

It was my third morning in Pakse and I got up early as usual. Bay asked me if I want to go to the wat with her and I said sure. Bay’s younger brother followed us with my digi-cam so he can make photos for the others to see.